The players at Domino Park must abide by certain rules that have been respected for years: speak softly, don’t carry alcoholic beverages, don’t arrive in flip-flops, and be a Miami resident no younger than 55. No one can explain why that’s the age limit, but it offers certain internal guarantees to the players: they won’t sit with novices or enthusiastic tourists visiting Calle Ocho, the heart of the disapora in Miami, to admire the nostalgic murals of Cuban exile, but rather be able to play one-on-one with their own kind, those who know Little Havana, people who left Cuba and helped build a city on “the swamp that was Miami,” who spend long hours thinking about what a return would be like and who never stop talking about politics. During a strange, cold January afternoon, almost a month after Nicolás Maduro’s capture, the players at the table wondered at what stage the Cuban regime had come closest to disappearing.

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